Female Festive Costume
South Russian Gubernias. Late 19th century
- Satin, silk ribbons, spangles, glass beads, stitching, fabric, galloon, wool, weaving, cotton, passementerie, many heddle weave
- В-9722; В-6715; Т-5889; Т-773; Т-6142
Kokhta
Early 20th century
Satin, silk ribbons, spangles, bugles, embroidery
Headdress
Fabric, galloon
Skirt
Wool, weaving, embroidery
Sash
Wool, cotton, passementerie, many heddle weave
South Russian sashes distinguished themselves through their rich style and abundant beaded decorations. The multi-colored fringe used in the broad sashes worn in Tula and Tambov are striking to the eye, as are the bright tassels adorning the beaded sashes of Ryazan (Skopin).
Carpet Shawl
Wool, cotton, weaving
From 1830 to 1850 the manufacture of socalled carpet shawls underwent widespread development. These shawls were entirely covered in interwoven patterns, with the exception of a small star-shaped center. The patterns on woolen shawls are comprised of different combinations of Eastern motifs (cucumbers, beans, fans).
With time, shawls manufactured in Russia started to differ from their foreign prototypes through a more realistic interpretation of Eastern, floral and plant motifs and a more delicate, flawless range of flowers. For this reason, they were covered more completely in flowers.