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Kokoshnik with Ochelye

Galich, Kostroma Gubernia. Last third of the 18th century


Kokoshnik
Cardboard, chopped mother of pearl, foil, colored glass, brocade

Ochelye
Chopped mother of pearl, colored glass, stringing, velvet

Usually a kokoshnik was donned over a sewn headband, or ochelye, to which an openwork netting of pearl or mother of pearl was attached. The kokoshnik’s hoop-shaped base ideally fit the top of the ochelye, to which a thick band or bolster was often sewn as a sort of “lock” to connect the headdress’ two parts.


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