Female Festive Costume

Veliky Ustyug District, Vologda Gubernia. 19th century

Flax, cotton, weaving

Flax, cotton, сoarse motley

Flax, cotton, weaving

Flax, cotton, chintz, weaving

Wool, weaving

Galloon, gold embroidery, mother of pearl, colored glass

These types of headdress — known as sbornik, morkhatka or shamshura in the North — were usually richly adorned with gold embroidery and mother of pearl, but never with gold fringes. This was probably the idea of antique dealers or collectors, to “decorate” them.

In the Veliky Ustyug District, Vologda Gubernia, brides-to-be and newlyweds wore festive costume decorated in a remarkable rich red-and-white design. The shirt sleeves are covered with red woven stars and these patterns could be embroidered on the apron in tiny cross stitches. An elegant homespun headscarf with a bright chintz frill, worn on the shoulders with the ends tucked into the straps of the sarafan, adds that final touch. The enormous apron is edged with the same festive frill, the most noticeable part of the local costume. A bright girdle is tied under the apron, its diametrical stripes showing all the colors of the rainbow.

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