Arkhangelsk Gubernia. 19th century

An amazing wide range of headdresses was worn by the women of the North, from Arkhangelsk, Olonets and Vologda Gubernias. There are the Kargopol kokoshniks and sorokas, and maiden’s bands, the Vologoda shashmura, also known as the sbornik or morshen and the soft Arkhangelsk povoinik, tied with kustyshki — a bright silk kerchief, with the ends sticking up over the forehead, “like hares’ ears”. Every region had its own decorative traditions — embroidery with pearls, beads or gold thread, applied in such a way that the gilt silver threads completely covered the surface of the headpiece, and no two patterns were alike. Young women in their first years of marriage wore elegant, richly decorated headdresses, while elderly women wore more modest versions. Young brides-to-be had their own particular headdresses.

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